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'After a long mountain trek, we drove our Suzuki out of the mountains and followed a long, curvy road farther North to the quaint country atmosphere of Ndali Lodge. The main building and eight cottages have an English country feel with a touch of African style. The place straddles the ridge of an ancient volcanic crater, now filled with a placid lake. Colobus monkeys cavort in the trees and hornbills sail by, squawking as they go. We watched the sun set from our cottage, the view stretching out past more crater lakes and on to the blue wall of the Ruwenzoris. After one of the most delicious candle-lit dinners we’ve had in Uganda home-made bread, fresh salad and fish in coconut sauce followed by steaming hot baths, we felt rejuvenated and ready for our visit to nearby Kibale National Park'. 'All the lodges we stayed in were memorable. But our favorite was Ndali Lodge, owned by an Englishman, Aubrey Price. It stands right on the edge of the crater lake - he's got an amazing 17th-century pump which takes the water all the way up the hill and into old oil barrels. There's an old English feel about the lodge; probably because it was built by his father, an RAF officer. It's all pork chops and potatoes. There's no electricity - everything is candlelit. And there is a telescope, through which I saw the rings of Saturn as the sky was crystal clear'. 'Ndali Lodge teeters on the edge of Lake Nyinambuga, the remains of an extinct volcano in western Uganda's Bunyaruguru crater-lake region. The vast farm cultivates coffee, bananas and tea, which are harvested by hand. Ndali's English connections are strong the lodge is run by the third generation of the Sturdy/Price family, the descendants of Major Trevor Price, who arrived in Uganda from Cairo in the 1920s. The main lodge has a decidedly British country-house feel, and full English breakfasts are offered alongside glasses of freshly pressed passionfruit juice from the farm's own crop. There are eight thatch-and-stone cottages surrounding the main lodge, all with panoramic views over the romantically named Mountains of the Moon. Ndali is also perfectly placed for exploring the Kibale National Park, one of Uganda's most important rainforests, which is home to 13 different species of primate'. 'The best hotel near Fort Portal is Ndali Lodge in crater lake country, an unspoiled farming region about 30km out of town. The place overlooks its own private crater lake, and is an immensely relaxing place in which to experience Uganda without being on constant safari. Old copies of Horse and Hound lie around on tables; an elderly and dignified barman notes the drinks you have consumed in a battered pad; dinners are communal and lively'. 'Meanwile, Ndlai Lodge. I am perched on the edge of lake Nyinambuga eating Shepherd’s pie to the sound of trumpets. Well, shepherds pie in Kasenda, one of the world’s densest concentrations of volcanic crater lakes, jolly well deserves trumpets. It’s magnificent, pie and lake. Not precisely Scotland, or the last king, but reminiscent of loch and mountain. Ndali is owned by the Price family from Yorkshire. They were chucked out in the Amin years, then invited back by Museveni. Aubrey Price, 33, is young, fun and running it with brio; his butler creaks towards one with a spine stiffening gin and tonic... … This is Anglo-African country house style, breezy and chintzy, open to the outdoors… … The Ndali Lodge has huge charm; it is not to be confused with Southern African luxe but the communal dinner chat round their table is way better than Notting Hill'. 'My chalet was one of eight scattered on a flat top rim of a long dead volcano, looking down on the perfect circle of a crater lake. But its hotbed years on the molten lava has long gone. Every slope was clad in banana plantations and patches of forest, small thatched huts and little trails of smoke from countless family fires'. 'Here one can live like a king' ... Ndali is somewhere to soak up Uganda's beauty in a perfect peace ... Deciding to do something with the scenery rather than just gwaping at it, I coaxed a thatcher and trained herbalist to accompany me on a walk and give me a few lessons in local folklore I returned several hours later having had lessons in, among other things, removing venom from a snakebite with the aid of a rock'. 'The emphasis at Ndali Lodge is on nature. Here the darkness is really dark; the silence really silent. There are 50 shades and hues of green... All can wander at will over the estate which abounds with birds, butterflies and exotic plants... The idea is for the visitor to enjoy Africa on foot - far more intimate than following the well worn safari trails, imprisoned in four-wheel drive vehicles'. 'The family-run Ndali Lodge is one of Uganda's most widely praised upmarket retreats. It has a stunning location high on the rim of lake Nyinambuga, offering panoramic views accross lake Rukwanzi and steep slopes lined in banana plantations to the Rwenzori peaks. The airy and tastefully decorated lounge and dining area, set in colourful flowering gardens, have something of an English country-house ambience, with a good library and superb candlelit, home-cooked four-course dinners.'
'At the end of the ridge we came to Ndali lodge, a mix of rustic romanticism and post-colonial luxury. Indoor lighting was strictly the warm glow of a kerosene lamp, muted by gauzy mosquito nets. Guests take tea in the afternoon and evening drinks with other guests before [an] English-style meal..... The style feels almost Spanish mission, with the main building commanding breathtaking views of lakes on either side'
'....Ndali lodge.....a thousand acre estate belonging to an Englishman, where coffe, bananas and vegetables are cultivated in the traditional African way. In spirit, however, this is home-counties England: immaculate lawns, festoons of morning glory, Marmite on the breakfast table, a chintzy drawing room with backgammon and scrabble sets, copies of the spectator and dogs lying around. The eight cottages are delightful, with four-poster beds, large bathrooms and verandas with views, on clear mornings, of the snowcapped peaks of the Mountains of the Moon..........where else on the equator can you sit in a rocking-chair surveying a scene in tropical technicolour agains a mysterious and misty backdrop reminiscent of the Alps?' |
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